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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

Okay, so looks its not possible, especially with the carbs popping up what looks to be really close to the hood. So how would something like that be stiffened in the front? Braces from the fire wall? Stitch welding everything up front? Or does the front end even need to be stiffened besides shocks and struts? From what I could find it looks like it has upper-lower A-arm set up, correct?

3/4 inch electrical conduit, hammer the ends flat, sheet metal screws to top of wheel arches. Ta-da! braced in 15 minutes for $2!

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alkun
3/4 inch electrical conduit, hammer the ends flat, sheet metal screws to top of wheel arches. Ta-da! braced in 15 minutes for $2!

Remember! 2 per side so it can't rotate around one.

Otherwise, brilliant.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
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is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Had customer that autoX'd one of those old Volvo years ago. He had a 1" strap bolted to the drivers side of engine and the drivers innner fender with a rubber exhaust washer for dampening at the fender. After I welded the tear in the fender a couple of times he finally decided to remove the brace.

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alkun
3/4 inch electrical conduit, hammer the ends flat, sheet metal screws to top of wheel arches. Ta-da! braced in 15 minutes for $2!

:nod:

Except 1/2" is plenty sufficient since it's end loaded tubing.

You might recognize this car Al.



Throttle spool clearance.

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john vanlandingham

Remember! 2 per side so it can't rotate around one.

Otherwise, brilliant.

Ja ja..

As I said no hard points on a 140 so he's going to have to tuck it in between the fender and the fender apron on a 140, and figure out things at the firewall.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

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heymagic
Had customer that autoX'd one of those old Volvo years ago. He had a 1" strap bolted to the drivers side of engine and the drivers innner fender with a rubber exhaust washer for dampening at the fender. After I welded the tear in the fender a couple of times he finally decided to remove the brace.

:uh:

You should have charged him a bunch of money to triangulate the strap through a D ring, and out to some hard points.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

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Ken Rogers

Ken have you got to plate along the firewall where the braces bolt up yet? The nuts crack and tear right out.

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JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

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JohnLane

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Ken Rogers

Ken have you got to plate along the firewall where the braces bolt up yet? The nuts crack and tear right out.

Now you tell me.

It ran just fine like that for 2.5 years, and then I sold it back to Al.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

ah that were a fine wagon, I learned to drive in that very car...

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Ken Rogers

Quote
heymagic
Had customer that autoX'd one of those old Volvo years ago. He had a 1" strap bolted to the drivers side of engine and the drivers innner fender with a rubber exhaust washer for dampening at the fender. After I welded the tear in the fender a couple of times he finally decided to remove the brace.

:uh:

You should have charged him a bunch of money to triangulate the strap through a D ring, and out to some hard points.

Well crap, why didn't you tell me that about 30 years ago

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Ken Rogers

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JohnLane
Ken have you got to plate along the firewall where the braces bolt up yet? The nuts crack and tear right out.

Now you tell me.

It ran just fine like that for 2.5 years, and then I sold it back to Al.

Ahhhh.......

I'm surprised to see the heavy sound deadening material still in place in a racecar. It must have been effective at hiding the cracks....

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JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

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JohnLane

Quote
Ken Rogers

Quote
JohnLane
Ken have you got to plate along the firewall where the braces bolt up yet? The nuts crack and tear right out.

Now you tell me.

It ran just fine like that for 2.5 years, and then I sold it back to Al.

Ahhhh.......

I'm surprised to see the heavy sound deadening material still in place in a racecar. It must have been effective at hiding the cracks....

It was my work rig for those years, a bit rough around the edges but it had a heart of gold.

I fitted those braces carefully so there was no slop or wiggle, put a hood bolt in the firewall, and snugged it down good.

No slop in the fittings goes a long way towards reducing fatigue failures.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

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Ken Rogers
I fitted those braces carefully so there was no slop or wiggle, put a hood bolt in the firewall, and snugged it down good.

No slop in the fittings goes a long way towards reducing fatigue failures.

No slop in fittings installed in that tin-foil is still fatigue failure even in street-driven cars!

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JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

Quote
JohnLane

Quote
Ken Rogers
I fitted those braces carefully so there was no slop or wiggle, put a hood bolt in the firewall, and snugged it down good.

No slop in the fittings goes a long way towards reducing fatigue failures.

No slop in fittings installed in that tin-foil is still fatigue failure even in street-driven cars!

There is actually a vertical brace that the weld nut is spot welded to.

As you may know the load runs on the surface as tension, and some sort of bracing or gusseting is usually needed to spread the load.

So by bolting the flat of the brace to the surface, the energy transfer is made without stressing the spot welds.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT