Mark, the cheapest low-miles ecoboost that is local to me is $1300 with 12k miles.
The ECU is $1500 from Ford. The mazda 5 speed is listed around $300-700, with 6spds at $1000. The one that I picked up was $700 with 26k miles on it. Talking with Dave, the 5spd might be a better choice since you don't shift the car very much with all the torque. The upgraded mazda clutch set was $550 and the flywheel was another $200 or so. You may be able to get by with a stock clutch, but the one we chose was actually rated within the torque output of the engine. These parts all bolt together, no modifications. The quad-4-rods bell housing adapter was about $550 when I checked. You still need a clutch system though. Dave can add his opinions on what it's like on stage. I thought the turbo lag on the ecoboost is almost zero. There is no waiting. Between the variable cam timing, ignition timing changes, and the wastegate controller doing magic... It's always ready to go go go. |
NoCoast Grant Hughes Elite Moderator Location: Whitefish, MT Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 6,818 Rally Car: BMW |
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MarkHille Mark Hille Mega Moderator Location: The hills of CT Join Date: 10/04/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 135 Rally Car: I have two crap boxes |
You say this and I really WANT to believe you....but I'd have to feel it to believe it. haha. Grant, that is already my problem. I have spare blocks and in my head the only thing wrong with them is they sometimes strip the distributor gears especially if you try and put in a high pressure pump. $400 and esslinger will solve that problem too though. Forged pistons, stout rods, stout crank. Yeah the block weighs a little more but with an aluminum head how much difference is there when you have a steel oil pan on the ecoboost? If you didn't have ANY spare parts the ecoboost starts to look better and better. If your swimming in them.....well..... |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Beer to you too..We ARE talking about parts....they are the subject...not how we "feel" about them or if we "like" them...
Well "geometry" is kinda a vague word...and this very idea has been kicked around over on Turdboatpricks where some young guy signed on and announced he is going to cast a new head for the Volvos for $500 delivered and its going to flow like (can't remember exactly because I don't remember bullshit very well) but some crazy figure higher than the documented best , seriously reworked 8v Volvo heads in the whole world and way more than the Volvo 16v.... and that with using stock intake and exhaust manifolds...and this with stock 44mm in and 35mm ex valve sizes... It was asked 'If the manifolds are stock, and that means the port positioning up/down is stock at the face of the head, and if the motor will use stock cams--which means the valves are in the same position in the cylinder this means the ports must begin in the same place and end in the same place as stock...(agreed)....this leaves just the short port length and the very short approach to the valve seat to accomplish what is basically a miracle.....well in excess of documented flows on very modified heads.... Here is a typical unrehersed reaction to the guy's flow figures: Can we get an angelic choir here? On the face of it it is folly... Sorta an "If this, then that" If stock port position, height, size, then......some small improvements can be made---but not magic doubling of flow.. Volvo head like the Lima head has ports approaching the valves at a very low approach..Lima is worse on intake and Volvo worse on exhaust. Low approach means the port must do a full 90* turn to get to the seat. Not good for flow. So all that said, the Esslinger aluminum STOCK position everything head is pretty---I've fondled them---and very pretty finish.....but same insane angles front and rear, same low approach...meh. At least its lighter, less himia (sorta like a hernia but for guys) lifting it, and aluminum is better on heat so MOAR BEWST whoopie. Their ARCA head...oh mah gawd, that's nice. Look at it...It corresponds to the "Two Valve Evo" head made by Motordesign in Sweden We talked about it here: http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?1,93517,page=3
Basically 2+2 ing claims for stuff here against documented stuff at http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/
Some of both, and using my eyes...
The Understatement of the Week Award goes to Mark Hille in Cornyeticult!!
Note: I always compared valve area but recently was corrected in this by some older guys who have been high level drag race engine builders (one won AHRA Top Fuel title once)..They said compare valve circumference instead... And yeah the design of the ports and valve sizes means the B234 thing can outflow the fuck out of a Lima---if the design is utilised optimally.... But not if the Lima is all swoot and has a nasty ass cam and the B234 guy retains the limp, lazy weenie stock cams.... I've sold TONS---who knows 20-30 sets---of pistons and rods to B234 turbo guys and ALL who have sent dyno sheets show a lazy climb to a high peak torque at around 4600 rpm and a peak HP at around 5500...Not at all impressive...The cams are lame. So either turbo or n.a. the thing wants cams---that's why I made a pile of cam cores: So that we could choose real profiles for what we are doing either n.a. or turbo rally And made them for the 8v motors as well.. THEN we can compare a bad-ass Lima head with a bad ass cam to a Volvo head with a bad ass cam...
Squish is squish and we want that on any motor but don't forget a big deal about "squish" is the quench effect...the cooling of the circumference of the piston by getting it as cloase as we dare to the relatively nice cool head quench pads and that applies to 8v or 16v, turbo or n.a., Ford Lima, Volvo 8v, 16v Durtec or Ecoboost... And so far all this talk of flow is one thing---getting a good gulp of air in...But next comes what we do with that gulp of air and there the 16v pent rood, narrow angle (39 degrees between valves) compact combustion chamber right over the center of the piston with a sparkie plug in the perfect position really begins to shine....the design itself is far more detonation resistant than any bathtub shaped chamber with a pluf way over the fuck on one side.
Meh. in a turbo application fuck it, the charge is going in. in n.a its vomit...
Meh again. Its ugly but reliable... I wish somebody would make one that positioned the turbo so we could use stock Cossie connecting hoses and have the same quick change capabilities as YB has.. And in all this theoretical talk it all depends on what power the goal is, and what KIND of delivery.. and for what price..
Yep especially if you actuall make some efforts at assembling it right---the question never addressed in the "caused 3 DNFs"..... But there are serious limits with motors with bores over 86-87mm, and with iron heads....And Lima and Volvo B23 are 96mm bore... They are time limited just because of the bore size and the time it takes to burn that distance--in a way a motor with 82mm or 85/86mm isn't...
At least, depending on the model...about 399BHP for some models--like TB0340
Yep: right rad, right oil cooler, right intercooler....know good stuff exists....just get it...
Good question
I don't know. Smarter guys than me are making the decisions to suit themselves....
Well oil cooling and (gasp!) just breaking down and stripping one down (zero cost) , surfacing the block ($80) and checking top ring side clearance (zero cost) and checking the condition if the oil pump, and assembling...bearings are $30 for rods and $55 for mains if you actually need them...$300 for forged flat top piston set---for the poor bastids who must obey the no-turbo for noobs bullshit...
back in 1997...YBG
Ecoboost you'll have to ask the experts... Duratec 2300 in addition to core motor say rods: $240 Pistons: $360-720 for good forged Mazdog whatever oil pump....$? KEYWAYS CUT for crank and cam gears....$? (no key ways anywhere, everything is 'spossed to stay by willpower, no bearing tang grooves in the rods, because no bearing tang on the bearings... Steel flywheel---I make 'em but somebody certainly has a cheaper thing than $325-340 and using a know good KNOWN pressure plate..I'm sure the others are some nice color and say "Stage Two" so that's good enough for most guys..
All depends on who is doing it...what skills, what knowledge base... Who can say?
Since I have weak X-ray fu, I consider and motor not running suspect, so they were "cores" and were torn down for examination.
No they were sold as is pulled--one from a friend's shop, one from a "Rally spare parts storage depot" cynically called by elitists a "junk yard".
Depends.. I also bought a pick up manual trans just to saw the bellhousing off of to study if i could make a better T5 bellhousing.... Me-otter ain't bad but no common, no known anything, and no known prices for rebuild stuff....see the presumptions i make--presuming rebuilds..Most just throw trannies away and buy another...cheaper. easier...
Maybe wrong thread but that should stop all the ex-spurts for telling you you need a Holset of a new Borg Warner because new "Technology".. Couldn't possibly be any bastic thing like cam timing--or ya bought some dumb A237 cam or you have a weenie pipe.. Can't say.. So,,we still drinking beer? Good... John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
MarkHille Mark Hille Mega Moderator Location: The hills of CT Join Date: 10/04/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 135 Rally Car: I have two crap boxes |
I do remember hearing that even though the volvo head has little sqwish that its chamber is more efficient and less prone to detonation than the d shaped.
I have heard a lot of good things about the new efr turbos from people i trust but at $1700 its way to much to have a spare. Meh...thats too much to own one. How much do you sell those cam sets for? I dont know anything about the miata trans. So they are strong enough? |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Vastly more efficient in terms of combustion effciency...That's why from just a few high end cars 30 years ago, its hard to think of a car head that is not Pent roof 4 valve. And the flip side of power is effciency, same thing , different focus... As for quench/squish : didya look at the link to topplockverkstan.se? Not enough? and you want some compression and don't want a gigantic dome (to interrupt flame propagation)..Add some... B234: That was turbo, bigger chamber. Here's n.a. add some.. Carve it up: Thats more compression from smaller chamber and more quench.. And the one thing nice about big bores is the room ther is for bigger valve(s) Remember the circumfrence thing? 1 x 44 = 138.23mm circumfr. 1 x 34 = 106.8mm but 2 x 34 =213.6 213.6 vs 138... You can shove in a Volvo or Lima 46mm intake valves 46mm = 144 OK with seats re-done 48 = 150.8 Still a big chunk less than 213.6 which is stock size.. There's room for as large as 39mm intakes 39mm = 122.5...........x 2...........245mm Thats crazy stuff there... So if the thing can in n.a form gulp in such huge amounts, as turbo it needs only a little boost and mild ass cams...
Yeah. not having a spare is irresponsible..Its madness.. What did you say your turbo was?
I don't say, I was contracted by a very astute shop to make the cores.. Cost him 1/3 the price he was quoted in Virginia... I was first customer to buy some back though...
Who knows? The ratios are, aside from the load it on the trailer First---awfully damn nice: Gear Ratios (6-speed Manual) 1st - 3.76:1 2nd - 2.27:1 3rd - 1.65:1 4th - 1.26:1 5th - 1.00:1 6th - 0.84:1 Combine that with say a 4.5 axle ratio or better still 4.88 and you have a a ticket ride---if they hold up.. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
RALLYRS Mike Ball Mega Moderator Location: Simi Valley,Ca. Join Date: 07/15/2011 Age: Ancient Posts: 466 Rally Car: Nope...I wish...RWD 2 Door Jeep XJ 4.0 5-spd Dirt-o-cross car(we have no grass!)2.3 ZX3 rallyx car(sold) |
Ratfink's swap of a 2.3 Duratec from a Focus into an XR-link below.
Remember- the 2.3(and 2.5)Duratecs are taller than the 2.0 Duratecs. As mentioned before- his project was eventually abandoned unfortunately. http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=10278 ................................................. ..................... Support your Local North American Rally Forum!! While they are still around-and get the hell off Farsebook!! We still have Specialstage & RallyAnarchy. Post up Here: https://rallyanarchy.com/phorum/posting.php and here: https://www.specialstage.com/forums/forum.php |
tdrrally edward mucklow Super Moderator Location: charleston,wv Join Date: 05/31/2011 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 763 Rally Car: ford mustang LX 5.0, 1973 VW Beetle |
ecoboost 2.0 in a fox chassis
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?150082-Ecoboost-swap-in-a-fox/page2 sweet car I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow! first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it! |
buerckner Andrew Buerckner Super Moderator Location: Canberra, Australia Join Date: 10/22/2011 Posts: 120 Rally Car: Daihatsu Charade GTti DOHC Turbo, and Mazda MX-5(miata) Turbo(bent) |
Mines done 3 seasons of rallying with a 4.4:1 rear full spool diff and held up. Including using flat shift and antilag. Change the oil after 5 events, diff oil every 2 events. We blew a few up on the circuit version of the same car just with a bit more power. |
Andrew, were you running the NC 6spd or the older NA/NB 6spd? What torque was the engine putting out?
At Olympus the 3rd gear decided to shed some weight. SOMEHOW (don't ask me how), the car was able to finish a few more stages and make it all the way back to service. Cleaned some junk out, flushed the trans, filled it, and ran it. I ended up doing that 3 times, once each service. Made it all the way through the second day without 3rd and 4th. We got lucky. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2015 07:52PM by Robert Culbertson. |
Pete Pete Remner Elite Moderator Location: Cleveland, Ohio Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 2,022 |
Why is that surprising? I've had enough experience with teeth-shedding Mazda transmissions that everything is fine once the parts have self-clearanced. The scary one was the last one because it made no awful noises, just bang immediately after shifting to 3rd and then nothing. No awful garbage disposal eating silverware noises like normal, just "nothing". The lack of noise made me think, well maybe it's a shift fork problem? Then I drained the teeth out of the trans. Always was able to drive them around if it was a "gear" that did it (have stripped the input shaft teeth, which is mucho more sucko) and usually put a couple thousand more on until I had time to bother changing the trans. Wide powerbands only need 2-3 gears anyway, right?
Only bugger is every time a trans does that, it destroys the slip yoke on the driveshaft. Good driveshafts are harder to find than good transmissions... Pete Remner Cleveland, Ohio 1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing) 1978 Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2015 09:03PM by Pete. |
buerckner Andrew Buerckner Super Moderator Location: Canberra, Australia Join Date: 10/22/2011 Posts: 120 Rally Car: Daihatsu Charade GTti DOHC Turbo, and Mazda MX-5(miata) Turbo(bent) |
NB Turbo 6-speed. Torques.... dunno I'd have to look it up but has over 160kw from 4500rpm up and peaks over 185rwkw. only running 12psi boost, stock engine,turbo etc just an Autronic SM4 and E85 EDIT useing online torque calculator thingy about 220ft/lb (I reserve the right for this to be completely wrong :-) ) Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2015 09:35PM by buerckner. |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Elite Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Well then, that was good planning. John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |