DMS Rebuild kits

I seem to remember hearing something about cheap source for seals and grease to clean and rebuild DMS 50s. What do you know?

---

Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I seem to remember hearing something about cheap
> source for seals and grease to clean and rebuild
> DMS 50s. What do you know?

Naturally I have the seals and I use Moly EP grease. Good enough for the pressure in a gawd damn CV dontch think it can stand some namby pamby slip and slide?

>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

wrong thread!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/23/2008 08:54PM by Carl S.

Carl S Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> wrong thread!

No the threads on my 50mm stuff is the right threads.
Right as in same as DMS.
So same seals, same threads so interchangable spring seats and lock rings etc.
That's called planning you silly wabbit.
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Jul 23, 2008 by Carl
> S.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Odi sells rebuild kits that work with DMS($55 per strut I think). It includes the 2 strut bushings, grease, strut seal and foam for the breather, I believe. I had him rebuild my DMS and I am very satisfied. You can search on Specialstage under parts or send me a message and I will look for his phone number.

George

---

Civic Rally Car

^^ Odi, like.....'just bought the eagle talon this year' Odi?


Are these similar to the official 'kits' that DMS sells for like....$200/corner?

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2008 12:08AM by Jon Burke.

Nah, I just had a brain fart and posted in the wrong thread. Wasnt payin tention to my pooter screen.

But I did recently grease up some ohlins with moly ep grease...

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Carl S Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > wrong thread!
>
> No the threads on my 50mm stuff is the right
> threads.
> Right as in same as DMS.
> So same seals, same threads so interchangable
> spring seats and lock rings etc.
> That's called planning you silly wabbit.
> >
> >
> >
> > Edited 1 times. Last edit at Jul 23, 2008 by
> Carl
> > S.
>
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.jvab.f4.ca






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2008 12:19AM by Carl S.

Jon Burke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> ^^ Odi, like.....'just bought the eagle talon this
> year' Odi?
>
>
> Are these similar to the official 'kits' that DMS
> sells for like....$200/corner?
>
> Jon Burke - KI6LSW
> RallyX Team Up TwoMountains
> Team Blog:
>
Yes and yes.

cool, because I'm definitely going to have to rebuild one of these right away, getting a nasty rubbing sound from one of the rears.

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

I get the seals from NAPA they were like $5 each they take 2 per side and I have been using the Ford grease for the lube. The seals were listed as 50 mm inner 58 mm outer one way oil seals. I have the part number at home. I am traveling so I will not be able to post it until Monday.

DMS also told me that I should remove the cap that says do not remove and clean that area as dirt can get in there and cause the shock to leak prematurely.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2008 03:04PM by Andrew_Frick.

so question on 'rebuild' vs 'maintenance': The above discussion is just the usual maintenance needed on DMS's, right?

I ask because my rears squeek/groan like crazy, and I'm concerned its not just new seals and grease, but potentially a real rebuild.

on any little bump I get a sound like when you take a straw and pull it in/out of a McD's soda top. I'll see if I can get a video clip of it....I can make it happen parked and just jumping on my rear bumper.

what's a *real* rebuild consist of? Tim T. was telling me over last weekend that the cheap/good option is jvab's 50mm inserts?

---

Jon Burke - KI6LSW
Blog: http://psgrallywrx.blogspot.com/

Jon Burke Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> so question on 'rebuild' vs 'maintenance': The
> above discussion is just the usual maintenance
> needed on DMS's, right?
>
> I ask because my rears squeek/groan like crazy,
> and I'm concerned its not just new seals and
> grease, but potentially a real rebuild.

Springs rubbing.
>
> on any little bump I get a sound like when you
> take a straw and pull it in/out of a McD's soda
> top. I'll see if I can get a video clip of
> it....I can make it happen parked and just jumping
> on my rear bumper.

Try some lite oil or motorcycle chain lube just to see if it makes a difference.
Use the squirty tube so you can pinpoint squirt, work in stages.
>
> what's a *real* rebuild consist of?

Regrease and changing the oil.
Any modern oil is full of big complex molecules of various additives, and they make BIG molocules.
These can and do get chopped up in a process called molecular shearing.
The oil "wears out".
The trend over 30 years or maybe 34 is to go to extremely thin oils so when the oil heats and thins or deteriorates and loses viscosity, the relative change isn't so much a big deal.
Por ejemplo if you had say a 30 wt oil and it lost half it "30-ness" it be a markedly7 thinner 15w, but a loss of half of a 2w is only 1 number.

You simply select your internal shim pack to work with the oil with used beer viscosity. An advantage to this is a lessening of the tendency to hydraulically "lock" and square edged bumps where the time interval to displace oil is zero.
Old school shit from when I started fucking with stuff was brutal on square edges often and you would get severe hopping and pitching, sometimes right over the bars.

In cars its these impacts on hard packed surface or tarmac which breaks stuff.





Tim T. was
> telling me over last weekend that the cheap/good
> option is jvab's 50mm inserts?

Currently sold out but plans are surging forward to remedy that..

But I need to get a stack of orders for 50mm stuff really.
Capital, ya know.
>
> Jon Burke - KI6LSW
> RallyX Team Up TwoMountains
> Team Blog:
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

If it's a bent insert, those aren't rebuildable and are $800. Easy way to find out is with a dial indicator after you've taken the insert out of the body.

---

Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If it's a bent insert, those aren't rebuildable
> and are $800. Easy way to find out is with a dial
> indicator after you've taken the insert out of the
> body.

Grant, these strut thangs are virtually the same construction as any old moto-cross front fork.
We bent and straightened them routinely.

I've straighten already a dozen or more slightly skewed inserts.
I made up some wide alloy blocks with a radius to match to set the inserts on , then you dial indicate them in while on the press, mark them where they're high (the INSERTS YOU FOOL, not YOU!), then place another radiused support block thang a top and press!

Keep checking and correcting till the rod runs free.

Easy.
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

But DMS says you have to replace them.

---

Grant Hughes