Custom 240SX stage rally suspension. Round 2.

Russell organizes many of the local Drift events, and is a pretty dam good driver himself. The problem is his wife is ALSO a pretty dam good driver, and I think they would have a tough time letting the other drive... He is a Datsun perv through and through, so my guess would be a 210, 510, or 240sx

Quote
phlat65
Russell organizes many of the local Drift events, and is a pretty dam good driver himself. The problem is his wife is ALSO a pretty dam good driver, and I think they would have a tough time letting the other drive... He is a Datsun perv through and through, so my guess would be a 210, 510, or 240sx

Well convince 'em both that a nice 240 (Nissan) with some simplified and beefier links would be pretty good second driftosis car.
KA24DE is a beast but they can make good powerz....
And somebody made some suspenders for 240 (Nissan) I hear.

What more do ya need to get sideways?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Those are some interesting gear options, but that will have to wait. Getting the new suspension set up, and the motor put together takes first priority. Speaking of, John, what were you planning for an upper mount for the rear?

---

I Seppanen, Car #240

Quote
Ian S
Those are some interesting gear options, but that will have to wait. Getting the new suspension set up, and the motor put together takes first priority. Speaking of, John, what were you planning for an upper mount for the rear?

I was trying to corn-vince ya to mod the upper mount into a simple eyelet type mount so you could save buying my Soooper bitchin stainless pin mounts.
You know: 2 D shaped tabs spaced about yay apart over a rectangular hole then weld a piece of tin shaped like Greek "Omega" just to keep the dirt out.

A little time welding to save $110.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Ian S
Those are some interesting gear options, but that will have to wait. Getting the new suspension set up, and the motor put together takes first priority. Speaking of, John, what were you planning for an upper mount for the rear?

I was trying to corn-vince ya to mod the upper mount into a simple eyelet type mount so you could save buying my Soooper bitchin stainless pin mounts.
You know: 2 D shaped tabs spaced about yay apart over a rectangular hole then weld a piece of tin shaped like Greek "Omega" just to keep the dirt out.

A little time welding to save $110.

Something like this?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

---

Quote

This isn't floor mat anarchy

Thats what I thought, I was just making sure. Granted I wont be able to actually do that until I know how much I need to bump the towers up. With that setup it would leave me with an eyelet on the top and the bottom of the damper correct? Seems like it would make things nice and easy.

---

I Seppanen, Car #240

Quote
alosix

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
Ian S
Those are some interesting gear options, but that will have to wait. Getting the new suspension set up, and the motor put together takes first priority. Speaking of, John, what were you planning for an upper mount for the rear?

I was trying to corn-vince ya to mod the upper mount into a simple eyelet type mount so you could save buying my Soooper bitchin stainless pin mounts.
You know: 2 D shaped tabs spaced about yay apart over a rectangular hole then weld a piece of tin shaped like Greek "Omega" just to keep the dirt out.

A little time welding to save $110.

Something like this?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SBRKT-FLT.html

Something like that but since I have nice spacers made for the 15mm spherical bearings which are an established width, seems smrat-er-er to just make 2 Ds so control the witdth,

See when we're installing the shock up into the wheelarch, the eyelet goes up a hole and we want the holes to line up easily so sliding the bolt thru is easy.
Look at this and notice the generous chamfer on the face of the flat part.


If the bearing is cocked, those chamfers make things straight itself out and zip you slide a bolt in and run the nut down,
very easy, very fast..
So the shocks I supply come with 15mm ID bearings, not 1/2" which mandates loose spacers which are annoying to install when its a lower mount and easy to reach and ridiculous when things are up in a narrow space.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
Ian S
Thats what I thought, I was just making sure. Granted I wont be able to actually do that until I know how much I need to bump the towers up. With that setup it would leave me with an eyelet on the top and the bottom of the damper correct? Seems like it would make things nice and easy.

Yeah we're trying to make things as quick and easy as possible. Working on the car should be as stress free as possible, especially when you're on event and have just a buddy you bribed with Blatz beer as a service crew.

I'm doing some suspension for a Suzuki GTI for a nice guy in LA now and the rears poke thru the rear uprights and stick down a bit.
The OEM shock is 1.756" and I'm writing him in between here that I should bore the arms out just 5mm total ONCE then the shock is direct in to the arm.
Hope its clear cause it'll save a buncha fab and save installed length, kinda sorta like your 240 fronts.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Perfect, thats what I was hoping for. Now I just need to get a hold of Martin, and find out what he ended up doing about his upper control arm in the rear. If he needed to mod them for clearance, or was it just beefing them up.

Keep me posted.

---

I Seppanen, Car #240

Quote
Ian S
Perfect, thats what I was hoping for. Now I just need to get a hold of Martin, and find out what he ended up doing about his upper control arm in the rear. If he needed to mod them for clearance, or was it just beefing them up.

Keep me posted.

Whatever it was it need badly to be stronger.
Can you post drawings or photos?
The Looptie loop thing probably can be made differently for the win.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

What's this?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Rear upper arms, I made myself. They go all the way around the shock, like the OEM ones, but bigger hole. The first ones I made were too weak and squished (got shorter), which gives you a lot of -ve camber. The second set, one lasted almost 4 seasons, until I ripped it apart in a ditch in Newfoundland, The other one lasted 4.5 seasons until it started squishing... must have been strong enough. I think I used DOM on the second set, but I'll need to get the dimensions. I discoved that one was squishing a day or two before Tall Pines, and didn't have a spare made up, so put on an after market one... it was weak-sauce and bent on the first stage, it was S14 style and only went one side of the shock. The matching one also only lasted 1 or 2 stages... so in service we welded up a new wrap around version, after cutting a couple of necessray parts off of one of the bent ones (I had the jig and the bent tubes with me). It lasted the rest of the rally fine.

I'm sure a well made S14 style one woudl work just fine, I just haven't tried to make a good one yet. It sure makes changing the shock easier, or the upper arm itself.

I'll get some mesurments and some pictures in the next day or two.

-Martin.

Not sure what that is out of, but here is the 240SX rear suspension. The loopy arm is where the suspender passes through.





Martin said the same thing about it being the week point, but I have not seen a failure yet. Although I have not closely inspected them since before LSPR. I am guessing that the flimsy tabs that attach the arm to knuckle are the weak point. I can see them tearing very easily.

---

I Seppanen, Car #240

Quote
MRWmotorsports
Rear upper arms, I made myself. They go all the way around the shock, like the OEM ones, but bigger hole. The first ones I made were too weak and squished (got shorter), which gives you a lot of -ve camber. The second set, one lasted almost 4 seasons, until I ripped it apart in a ditch in Newfoundland, The other one lasted 4.5 seasons until it started squishing... must have been strong enough. I think I used DOM on the second set, but I'll need to get the dimensions. I discoved that one was squishing a day or two before Tall Pines, and didn't have a spare made up, so put on an after market one... it was weak-sauce and bent on the first stage, it was S14 style and only went one side of the shock. The matching one also only lasted 1 or 2 stages... so in service we welded up a new wrap around version, after cutting a couple of necessray parts off of one of the bent ones (I had the jig and the bent tubes with me). It lasted the rest of the rally fine.

I'm sure a well made S14 style one woudl work just fine, I just haven't tried to make a good one yet. It sure makes changing the shock easier, or the upper arm itself.

I'll get some mesurments and some pictures in the next day or two.

-Martin.

I think you are right with the S14 style arm idea. Just need to build one strong enough. Either way, I need to do something, but I wont know what until I have some mock up coils to play around with.

---

I Seppanen, Car #240

Here's a couple of pictures... Still looking for some with everything attached. Wil also get soem dimensions.

-Martin.