Custom 240SX stage rally suspension. Round 2.
Posted by Ian S
Martin Walter Infallible Moderator Location: North Gower, Ontario, Canada. Join Date: 03/01/2006 Age: Ancient Posts: 450 Rally Car: Nissan 240SX |
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Ian Seppanen Mega Moderator Location: Esko, MN Join Date: 10/19/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 149 Rally Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX |
Martin Walter Infallible Moderator Location: North Gower, Ontario, Canada. Join Date: 03/01/2006 Age: Ancient Posts: 450 Rally Car: Nissan 240SX |
John said "those big Japanese 20mm pins are impossible to mount to, modify it to take a 1/2" bolt in double shear to fit a regular shock"... or something similar. What you see is what I came up with. It's worked flawlessly for 5 1/2 seasons. I think it was 2" square box with 1/8" wall (or maybe thicker). I cut the big pin off flush, cut the 2x2 to fit over the cast steel "lug" that was left, welded it on and drilled holes for the mounting bolt. You need to position it pretty carefully so as to not have the shock hardware rub the CV boot. This will depend on what springs you use and how high your spring perches are.. the ones pictured above (short shock, single spring) were fine, but with my double springs I ran into slight rubbing.
-Martin. |
Martin Walter Infallible Moderator Location: North Gower, Ontario, Canada. Join Date: 03/01/2006 Age: Ancient Posts: 450 Rally Car: Nissan 240SX |
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Russell OConnell Elite Moderator Location: WA Join Date: 12/28/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 12 Rally Car: none |
This is the S14 style RUCA (Rear Upper Control Arm in 240sx speak)
SPL Parts version: 
http://www.splparts.com/index.html sells the best suspension parts for Nissans. Many people have had good luck with the budget Chinaspeed fleabay knockoff control arms as long as they replace the rod ends with better quality QA1 / FK / Etc. items. The most economical way is to re-tap the metric ebay stuff for the common 5/8ths 18 rod ends. They hold up to road race and drift abuse but would probably need to be replaced more frequently for rally jumping action. They'd likely last longer than the un-reenforced subframe mounts.
Only other thing needed is a good LSD or spool and there are literally dozens of good options for the 240sx R200 diff! One of these day's I'll build a rally machine to fly through the woods. Sean tells me its the best drift event ever where you get to go sideways on public roads for hours on end. Here is a handy thread for DIY traction and toe links (the straight ones) with part numbers and dimensions needed for the rod ends and radius rods. http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1633 Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2011 04:13PM by Russell OConnell. |
Russell OConnell Elite Moderator Location: WA Join Date: 12/28/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 12 Rally Car: none |
I like that action and vote it the best way to go. I saw this setup on a local ministock that might be easier to implement. 
Cut and Drill out the existing pressed in OEM pin for 1/2" bolt and secure with suitable spacers and nut. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2011 04:03PM by Russell OConnell. |
Out of this dumpster fire Elite Moderator Join Date: 08/15/2010 Posts: 1,236 |
Ian Seppanen Mega Moderator Location: Esko, MN Join Date: 10/19/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 149 Rally Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX |
Interesting info. I have seen plenty of the S14 upper control arms, I used to have one.
I have spent plenty of time drooling over all of SPL's products, but I am not ready to go that route yet. I cant justify spending such big bucks on something that is essentially a wear item. Im pretty good with a welder these days, so I plan to build a few sets and run with it. Basically do what Martin did, modify the design until I have a winner. That being said, you are spot on with the subframe mounts. I beefed mine up a little, but I would prefer to keep the easily replaceable control arms slightly bendable to avoid damaging the Subframe or its mounting. I Seppanen, Car #240 |
Russell OConnell Elite Moderator Location: WA Join Date: 12/28/2011 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 12 Rally Car: none |
Here is a good recipe for home made low cost control arm bits:
Details - http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showpost.php?p=39646&postcount=127 And some additional nice things with lower control arms: Build Thread - http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=2703 (See his Photobucket acct for more detailed images) http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/ka-power/?start=all 
He's using low cost ball joint hardware from UB Machine - http://ubmachine.com/. Handy for lowered asphalt cars but not so good for rally. I agree it's a good idea to keep at least the lower control arms OEM (or with replaced inner joints with rod ends or spherical bearings) so they bend in an off rather than the heavy duty DOM stuff that will likely bend something else harder to fix. |
Sean Medcroft Mega Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
Dave Coleman Infallible Moderator Location: Long Beach, CA Join Date: 05/13/2007 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 448 Rally Car: Mazda3, SE-R Spec-V, 510 |
Why not just switch to 300ZX rear uprights and use fork-style lower shock mounts? Saves 7 lbs per side, too..
-D |
Martin Walter Infallible Moderator Location: North Gower, Ontario, Canada. Join Date: 03/01/2006 Age: Ancient Posts: 450 Rally Car: Nissan 240SX |
Ian Seppanen Mega Moderator Location: Esko, MN Join Date: 10/19/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 149 Rally Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX |
As sweet as the alloy z32 rear knuckles would be, there are a few issues, that for the time being make them a non option. First of all, they are spendy. Not a lot, but enough that throwing away the 3 full sets of knuckles, 6 front, 6 rear, that I have, becomes less appealing. Aluminium is soft. I would rather rinkle a stamped steel control arm then tweak the knuckle. Finally, I think Martin is correct. No way around it, either the damper or the upright will need to be modified. I would rather do the knuckle. I Seppanen, Car #240 |
Taylor Shead Junior Moderator Location: UTA, Texas Join Date: 02/28/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 102 Rally Car: scrap heap |
Russell Telker Godlike Moderator Location: Barnum, MN Join Date: 01/17/2012 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 3 Rally Car: none yet |
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