danster Haggis Muncher Super Moderator Location: Haggisland UK Join Date: 01/04/2013 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 409 Rally Car: VWs (for my sins) |
Hi Tony, "shaft plunge" (at least in my interpretation) is a term used to describe the position of the components within the inner CV joint and how much clearance the joint has from either being bottomed out against the gearbox output flange, or of being over-extended and in danger of pulling the inner joint to bits, or pulling the shaft out of the outer CV. When the car and it's steering and suspension were originally designed as per OEM specifications, the inner CV joint is able to cope with the effective slight variation in driveshaft length and angle as the suspension and steering travel through their full movement range. When mixing and matching parts, altering suspension travel, and adjusting camber and castor it is quite easy to create a situation where the inner CV could be operating in an unsafe zone and risk it failing. Also bent wishbones, subframes, chassis legs, along with movement in engine and transmission mountings can also cause problems. Shaft plunge can be measured with the springs removed, but shocks fitted in their chosen position to give desired suspension geometry. With the car in the air, check at full droop, mid travel, and fully compressed, and with the steering swung from centre to full lock left and right, in all these positions (so 9 checks in all) ensure at no point the inner CV joints is bottoming out or over extending. To allow the driveshaft to move so plunge can be checked, the outer CV / wheel bearing nut is removed and this then allows the shaft to slide back and forth in the drive flange and be pushed in and out of the inner CV to check it's positioning is acceptable and not at extremes. Mk3 Golf GTI / VR and Corrados with 5 stud setups can be awkward to check because the outer CV splines are "glued" into the drive flange with some kind of loctite from new. Don't try hammering the CV out as it will damage them, use the correct puller / pusher. Disappointingly not yet a Jackass |
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BJosephD Brian j Dyer Junior Moderator Location: southern maine Join Date: 05/01/2009 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 381 Rally Car: 04 Rocky Mountain MTB... |
It is documented on vortex but i know how hard it is to cut through the noise, and get a good signal. to make it easy the tie rods you do not want fit on the "waffle rack" from a mk3 VR. unless of course you have that specific rack. the threads are different as well, ask me how i know http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/Steering/220/2 Also, find a set of Oem axles and keep the remans as spares. i have had more problems with remanufactured shafts then OEM, buy used oem, put good german rubber boots on them and run em' Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2014 06:29AM by BJosephD. |
Towona Tony P Professional Moderator Location: Alberta, Canada Join Date: 08/21/2010 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 149 Rally Car: MK2 Golf |
Ok thanks. This is what I suspected you meant, but it's nice to know the term for this issue. I am currently experiencing this issue on my mk2 in its winter rally mode (ie on Hotbits instead of JVABs, mk2 knuckles/brakes instead of MK3, but the usual mk2 axles/lcas/tierods and prothane bushings)... at full droop (up on a hoist anyways) the inner cv's are being pulled out of their sockets (ie overextended), even with the coilovers threaded so far down as to totally decompress the spring. A few years ago I put mk3 axles in by mistake and found that I had the opposite problem... they would bind up when the suspension compressed (that was in summer rally mode though, with the JVABs). I guess I will have to have to try mixing and matching axles and arms to see what will work for me. Runamuck Rally |
Ckgtimk2 Corey Kline Ultra Moderator Location: Lancaster, PA Join Date: 11/22/2011 Age: Settling Down Posts: 103 Rally Car: Used and abused Mk2 GTI |
so would it be easier to use all mk4 parts? calipers/brackets/rotors etc? I'm planning on sticking w 4 lug for now since i have a ton of 4x100 wheels. only work it would add would be redrilling the mk4 rotors correct? would that eliminate the need for the spacers? Less talk. More rally. |
Yes you can do that, and that's what I really recommend. It's way easier to just re drill the hubs, but I'm sure someone, somewhere, doesn't have the ability to do that.
The version on my car is V1.meh. They work really well, but I would definitely just stick with mk4 stuff. I've sold off all of my current stock, so I'll be tooling up again to make another run. Prices in the $175-200 range. I need to actually break even on time.... |
john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Maybe somebody could copy your stuff and do it cheaper? Isn't that the way things are done? John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
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john vanlandingham John Vanlandingham Godlike Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Wait, why would I get my name on the list? I think I'm on enough lists already... John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |