Quote
NoCoast
Link John?

To what? AA MFg? I've linked there a million fucking tinmes and I'm saying its wrong..
It costs less. It can't be tter.
AA makes things for all the big circle track shops and buying direct is good..

But trying to get people to save money is wrong and we should all stop.
So go get the Baw-jaw tested thing..iy costs more.
Looks better.
Isn't that the whole point of everything?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Battery-Boxes_c_174.html

I like these, they scream EVIL...

Or, if you are building your own car, then you probably have the equipment to weld up your own, that's what I always do. 3/4 or 1" angle iron, notched and bent into a base, a couple of tabs for welding or bolting to the floor, a couple of uprights and a cross bar to secure the battery into the frame you just made.

-Jon

I've had some cars where you could feel the extra weight of a battery or second spare behind the axle in polar (?) movement. I like over the axle or in the back seat area. You can also use a large steel hinge (pole barn/shed style) for the top and some metal scraps to build a box. One can also add the 'welder' ends to the rear compartment to aid jump starting if needed.

john thank you for the links
i like saving money

i was looking at the summit box because its near water tight

i'm not sure but does an optima battery need to be in a box?

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

Gene, right you are on the polar moment of inertia! Mass centralization if a very large part of that. Now I'm going to get a bit nerdy, and I think this is all correct-o-mundo... maybe.

The change in direction of a car (torque to rotate) is directly proportional to a rotational acceleration and the moment of inertia. So to rotate twice as fast , you will need twice the torque (comes from tires and traction) or half the moment of inertia (mass of the car and distance from axis of rotation).
Moving mass in my half the distance reduce the effect by a factor of 4.

Torque = I*angular acceleration

I= 1/2*mass*R^2

i found this very interesting

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

For battery cable search fleabay for TEMCo 1/0 awg welding cable. Stuff is decently priced and more importantly COPPER. A lot of the cheapy 1/0 awg stuff is CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) and is no good.

Stranding (qty. x dia):
988/0.01"
Nominal outside diameter (in.):
0.533
Conductor material:
Copper
Insulation material:
High grade EPDM
Max. amps:
285
Max. voltage:
600
Min. temperature rating:
-50°C
Max. temperature rating:
105°C
Approvals:
Meets ASTM B-172 standards. Oil and Flame resistant.
Applications:
Secondary voltage resistance welding leads and power supply applications not exceeding 600 VAC.

what is the issue with CCA?

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

CCA is good for high frequency AC signals. At high frequencies most of the electrons only ride on the outside of the wire (where the copper cladding is). This is known as the skin effect.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect
People like CCA because: its cheap, its big, its okay for AC, and it is usually packaged to look pretty.

For DC signals like we are dealing with (Think starter) the skin effect does not come into effect and you have a more uniform current density throughout the wire. Since aluminum is not as good of a conductor as copper you end up having to run bigger wire to handle the same amount of DC current. Mostly CCA is used in audio applications where the signals are mostly AC. Basically if you are sizing your wire for current draw most of the equations/tables are based on pure copper for DC and those don't apply for CCA.

I also worry about the fatigue of using CCA in a rally car but I haven't looked into the fatigue properties of CCA so that could be a non issue.

cool information

thank you

what do think about putting the starter relay next the battery so the main power lead is only powered while cranking?

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

Quote
tdrrally

i was looking at the summit box because its near water tight

Does it need to be water tight?

And if the Summit box is the same one I am thinking of, it won't be water tight after you drill the through holes for the mounting bolts/studs. And there's no damn room for the cables if you want a battery more useful than a wheelchair POS tiny battery.

(Hey, the Summit box was ON SALE! I think like $20. Can't pass that up)

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Quote
tdrrally
cool information

thank you

what do think about putting the starter relay next the battery so the main power lead is only powered while cranking?

I don't see a real need to relocate the starter relay. You end up with more wire running through the car since you still have to run a big fat cable for the starter. Also it becomes a bit more difficult to put in a master kill switch if you want your kill switch to switch off your starter too.

Are you worried about shorting? Because if so you are still going to short the second you try and start the car. Just be smart about where you run the wire.

the rules read water tight

but i have an optima

its a mad enterprises thing they put the master kill switch on the rear too

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/25/2014 03:04PM by tdrrally.

Quote
Thomas Kimsey
CCA is good for high frequency AC signals. At high frequencies most of the electrons only ride on the outside of the wire (where the copper cladding is). This is known as the skin effect.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect
People like CCA because: its cheap, its big, its okay for AC, and it is usually packaged to look pretty.

For DC signals like we are dealing with (Think starter) the skin effect does not come into effect and you have a more uniform current density throughout the wire. Since aluminum is not as good of a conductor as copper you end up having to run bigger wire to handle the same amount of DC current. Mostly CCA is used in audio applications where the signals are mostly AC. Basically if you are sizing your wire for current draw most of the equations/tables are based on pure copper for DC and those don't apply for CCA.

I also worry about the fatigue of using CCA in a rally car but I haven't looked into the fatigue properties of CCA so that could be a non issue.

We only use the best five nines copper wire in our race/rally cars.

John - I found those battery boxes. I am not a fan. Though that does look like just the place to buy everything needed for a four link setup!

---

Grant Hughes

my big question is;
do you need a water tight box for an optima battery?

---

I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!