Any Starter Cars Near Michigan?

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john vanlandingham

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RallyBrighton
OK - I found a 323 GTX SCCA club car in MN but cage is 1.5" (it will need some gusseting and other cage updates) but can I even work with that cage? It has an SCCA log book but no RA or NASA. Price is very reasonable at $2,700.

Brad, seriously, don't think about 323s. There's detailed reasons in various threads here especially in response to the young guy in the thread here in For Sale called:

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OK John, I'll take your advice... how bout one of these?
by WRCWRXSTI

So aside from a useless cage that will have to be cut out and redone, there's the "Whatever-they-are-calling-Rally-Car-in-America" rule (for everybody except big money recycled "Extreme' heroes) that noobs cannot start in turbo cars, and living where you're living, you're right in the belly of the beast--so to speak.

The "Group 4 Escort MkII for America", the Volvo 240, or the "510 of the 00ies", the Xratty ultimately are soooper fun as turbo cars, but CAN very realistically be perfectly competitive as Normal Aspirated....

They are in essence the spiritual opposites of the lightly built, weak, short, lacking poop, no regular parts available, don't even dream of replacement gearbox parts, and forget any specialty parts (except suspesnion---truth is I've made Soooper Bitchin Suspenders for Maz-dogs ), never was any good really GTX..

No advantages, many severe disadvantages. Financially a potential disaster.

Ok - all the Volvo references made me think about a buddy of mine that has an old Volvo behind his barn. I called him up today and it's a 1978 240 coupe - free to me if I can get it out of his yard for him - I'll bring the winch. It ran when parked 10 years ago and is actually a pretty clean shell and its a manual.

See you in the build section.

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RallyBrighton

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john vanlandingham

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RallyBrighton
OK - I found a 323 GTX SCCA club car in MN but cage is 1.5" (it will need some gusseting and other cage updates) but can I even work with that cage? It has an SCCA log book but no RA or NASA. Price is very reasonable at $2,700.

Brad, seriously, don't think about 323s. There's detailed reasons in various threads here especially in response to the young guy in the thread here in For Sale called:

Quote

OK John, I'll take your advice... how bout one of these?
by WRCWRXSTI

So aside from a useless cage that will have to be cut out and redone, there's the "Whatever-they-are-calling-Rally-Car-in-America" rule (for everybody except big money recycled "Extreme' heroes) that noobs cannot start in turbo cars, and living where you're living, you're right in the belly of the beast--so to speak.

The "Group 4 Escort MkII for America", the Volvo 240, or the "510 of the 00ies", the Xratty ultimately are soooper fun as turbo cars, but CAN very realistically be perfectly competitive as Normal Aspirated....

They are in essence the spiritual opposites of the lightly built, weak, short, lacking poop, no regular parts available, don't even dream of replacement gearbox parts, and forget any specialty parts (except suspesnion---truth is I've made Soooper Bitchin Suspenders for Maz-dogs ), never was any good really GTX..

No advantages, many severe disadvantages. Financially a potential disaster.

Ok - all the Volvo references made me think about a buddy of mine that has an old Volvo behind his barn. I called him up today and it's a 1978 240 coupe - free to me if I can get it out of his yard for him - I'll bring the winch. It ran when parked 10 years ago and is actually a pretty clean shell and its a manual.

See you in the build section.

OKay, coupla notes to file.
When you decide to do suspension make sure whoever is doing it---maybe me---gets later hubs. They got substantially bigger wheelbearings in think end of 1980...

Now the Fuel Infection on those is called K-Jetronic K for "Continuous"
Not a bad system but!! it dependfs on extreme EXTREME cleanliness in the "fuel head"--the square black thang with all the fuel hoses coming out which go to each injector...
Inside is a (typical fawkin Krautski) perfectly ground rod which fits inside a sheet-metal sleeve with long slits in it.....(and as the "air flow door" raises up, the rod---on the other end of a lever arm, drops down the sleeve) , those slits get uncovered as they drop and that's the fuel volume....

Now that door and lever are balance carefully with a 1 bar differential in fuel pressure...ANYTHING that doesn't move exactly as intended and it dun't gonna workie...

And corrosion is the No1 emm-inie, especial on the ground rod....and corrosion happens-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


when the cars sit..

Fortunately there are a shocking number of 240 pervs here, many mostly lurking but you should have no-problem getting fresh un-foxxored fuel infection junk.

So get some FRESH fuel (by the way I seem to vaguely recall there is a drain on the tank, might be smrat to see if anything resembling liquid comes out.) and if the MAIN PUMP is being a filthy bastid, whack it with the plastic end of a reasonable size screwdriver while simultaneously swearing in either Swedish or a combination of Swedish and Finnish since the labor force at Volvo was heavily Finn back then.

Again there's plenty here who can help with tips on swearing.

It is also highly likely the injectors are happy about sitting, and nearly certainly the injector O rings are crap--but they're 79 centavos Americano..

Your No1 choice for all the boring junk you'll certainly initially need is to look on www.rockauto.com.....all sorts of Brand names junk....

78 has round headlights LIKE GAWD INTENDED (instead of the various hideous, nausea inducing square lights ) so that's OK, so the important stuff now:
what color?
Where's the piccies???

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
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