WANTED: NorCal Local Welding Help, Custom Motor Mounts...

With my motor now set in place, it's time to fab up a pair of motor mounts...

I've got some ideas, and some materials to work with, however I lack the essential skills & welder, to actually get it done.

Since I'm swapping to a 2.3L Volvo 4-cylinder engine, this swap lacks a lot of the spacial complications with some of the more "exotic" swaps....what I've got going on, is rather simple.

Anyone, local to me, interested in helping out?

Do you need the fab work done on site or can you make up a blueprint of what you need?

I've got connections up in Santa Rosa for fab work, but I doubt they want to drive to San Rafael, I can ask around if ya want Myles.

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I like to play with cars, it's very inappropriate.

Ideally, someone who doesn't mind having a look first hand.

It's not a big job, so I'm sure I could bring them something, to fab offsite.

Make a design you have lotsa flexibility with. Maybe have somebody do the parts and you do the final drilling of the holes so you don't have to have the whole car there.
But that would be the best way: car on site..

You going to mount it to the crossmember?
Have you think about doing like the later 940s? mounts---> o--I I--o

Search piccies of "Ford Escort World Cup crossmember"

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/06/2012 05:48PM by john vanlandingham.

Steering shaft is acquardly in my way...I should post you some detailed shots.

Thinking something like this'd be bitchinn...




The bosses for the O.E. Volvo mounts, are right above the flat part of the subframe....

I thought I'd make a plate to bolt to the engine, with a tube, to press the bushing into, then weld the receiving end, straight up, from the subframe.

Any reason I shouldn't stand that square tube w/ Bushing "Straight-Up" from the Subframe, so the receiving cup, on the motor just drops on, and then thru-bolts together?

Hopefully, it'll classify as cheap, effective & simple



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/06/2012 05:56PM by Mylesofsmyles.

THIS???

Found them

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
Mylesofsmyles
Steering shaft is acquardly in my way...I should post you some detailed shots.

Thinking something like this'd be bitchinn...




The bosses for the O.E. Volvo mounts, are right above the flat part of the subframe....

I thought I'd make a plate to bolt to the engine, with a tube, to press the bushing into, then weld the receiving end, straight up, from the subframe.

Any reason I shouldn't stand that square tube w/ Bushing "Straight-Up" from the Subframe, so the receiving cup, on the motor just drops on, and then thru-bolts together?

Hopefully, it'll classify as cheap, effective & simple

Looks like some torque rod ends and a couple U brackets you could cut out of U channel.

Heck you could add a couple of gussets to the torque rod legs where they hit the X member, and have the cat's meow.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/06/2012 11:40PM by Ken Rogers.

Quote
Ken Rogers
Looks like some torque rod ends and a couple U brackets you could cut out of U channel.

Heck you could add a couple of gussets to the torque rod legs where they hit the X member, and have the cat's meow.

As always, I admire your ability to find a good old Volvo part and recycle it, but the overall diameter of the Torque Rod Bushing, and it's sleeve is much too large for the space I have available....

Well, it is worth a second look....though the mounts I pictured do have a smaller outer diameter than the torque rods.

Quote
Mylesofsmyles

Quote
Ken Rogers
Looks like some torque rod ends and a couple U brackets you could cut out of U channel.

Heck you could add a couple of gussets to the torque rod legs where they hit the X member, and have the cat's meow.

As always, I admire your ability to find a good old Volvo part and recycle it, but the overall diameter of the Torque Rod Bushing, and it's sleeve is much too large for the space I have available....

Well, it is worth a second look....though the mounts I pictured do have a smaller outer diameter than the torque rods.

Actually I was thinking about the early style with the one inch Ø hard rubber bushing.

That don't wear out, but nobody wants because it's 'NOT POLY' garbage with half the lifespan of the OE OG rubber.

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1971 145S - 1972 1800ES - 1982 245 GLT

That was a good lil' chat on the phone.

I love the idea, and the fact that the parts are already in the "Bat-Cave"

I'll lop a pair of brackets off a 240 rear axle, to have welded on to the motor mount brackets....

Maybe we'll be able to bolt these in, and go, go go!

Hey kid, for reference the bush that Ford uses on the Sierras is a 79-82 Escort front leaf spring bush for vans. Its in a steel case 1.3" OD, 2.315" long, 12mm hole, and the rubber part is about 1.23 diameter.
A 4x4 with the front 7.5" diff weighs maybe a bit less than a Redblock so if that size is good enuf for a 4x4 weight it should be fine for a Redblock.

They last forever and little vibration in the car. Nobody ever commented that they noticed bad vibes.

I'd shoot for something at least that size.

WE've use some Chebby leaf spring bush in the past on a 510 that got a truly Soooooper Bitchin motor called the FJ20, Nissan's copy of the Ford Cosworth BDG 2,0 16v. Worked fine

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Hey kid, for reference the bush that Ford uses on the Sierras is a 79-82 Escort front leaf spring bush for vans. Its in a steel case 1.3" OD, 2.315" long, 12mm hole, and the rubber part is about 1.23 diameter.
A 4x4 with the front 7.5" diff weighs maybe a bit less than a Redblock so if that size is good enuf for a 4x4 weight it should be fine for a Redblock.

They last forever and little vibration in the car. Nobody ever commented that they noticed bad vibes.

I'd shoot for something at least that size.

Go big or go home!
I'll measure the torque rod bushings, Ken speaks of, and see how far off we are.
There's inherent benefit for me to pull just another part from the glorious Volvo parts catalogue, if I can.
Not to mention, recycling parts, Ken has tons of, and won't throw away, so we can have parts for occasions like these...


WE've use some Chebby leaf spring bush in the past on a 510 that got a truly Soooooper Bitchin motor called the FJ20, Nissan's copy of the Ford Cosworth BDG 2,0 16v. Worked fine[/quote]

Ohhhh, ahhh...

Just took a lap around the block, so my dog could make another steaming pile...

Observed the new neighbor is a car guy...has a matte black, caged Wide Body 510, down LOW on some cool, Kelly Green wheels, and some nice, authentic Recaros.

Hey John...

I'm going to get those torque rods from Ken, ASAP, and get them cut for fitting...

What thickness sheet of mild steel should i use, to construct the engine mount plate?

Where can I get it?

Here is what I used, following Johns advice, but being able to walk into my local parts store and get them instead of ordering from the UK. They fit in a standard ID tube. 1993 or so Ford F250 4x4 front leak spring bushings.